Questions & Answers:
1 Q :Is the performance and characteristics of elastic glue layer depending on viscosity choosen from normal,medium or high types?
A: No! Adherence , drying time and elasticity of the final elastic glue layer are not depending on viscosity of the glue you choosed ,but all characteristics are depending on tha thickness of the final layer (or of one layer). We designed different viscosities because you can be used with different viscosities and we want to amke easier for you to make an uniform layer as you are used to.However even with very high viscosity you can obtain uniform and thinner layers .We recomend normal viscosity for the self leveling effect feature.
2 Q: How many layers of glue you can put on the rubber and blade?
A: If you use the right quantity for each layer (around 1 ml ) you can put even 4-5 layers on rubber and 2 on blade , and the whole thickness of the layer it will still be under 0.1 mm, especially if you keep it a racket press for the night.
3Q: How is better to dry the glue?
A: It is better to let dry naturally -it will not take more than 15-20 minutes one layer -because it will dry uniformly and the idea is not to remain a “watered “layer under a dried layer (this can happen if you don’t pay attention to drying with hair drier ). But if you do not: apply a too thick layer of glue, keep the air drier too hot and too close to rubber you can also obtain same results with air drier.
4Q: Is the glue coagulating?In what conditions?
A: This glue is coagulating much more slowly than other glues so untill is dry you can add or adjust the glue layer . This is why you can reuse the sponge if you wash it after you use it . If you use the other end for next layer,squize perfectly the used and washed top of sponge when the glue is dried the sponge end is also dried and ready to re-use. If you let the sponge dry without washing for 30 minutes ,you can still wash the sponge but some coagulum will remain on sponge .
5Q: How do you use the sponge and how to re-use it?
A: This glue is coagulating much more slowly than other glues so until is dry you can add or adjust the glue layer . This is why you can reuse the sponge if you wash it after you use it . If you use the other end for next layer, squeeze perfectly the used and washed top of sponge when the glue is dried the sponge end is also dried and ready to re-use. If you let the sponge dry without washing for 30 minutes ,you can still wash the sponge but some coagulates will remain on sponge that you still can clean when is perfectly dried.If not you can cut the end and re -use the sponge. But we recommend washing:is green,clean and easy.
6Q: When do I have to peel off?
A: If you used too many layers of glue ,because you wanted more speed & spin after the thickness of glue layer is more then 0.08-0.1 mm ,function of the thickness of the rubber , the results are less ,so you have to peel off and restart gluing by having in mind which number of glue layers fitted with your playing style.
7Q: Is it necessary to re-glue and peel off? When?
A: Before you decide your final recipe (how many layers on blade and rubbers ),in the period of testing when there are too many layers and the thickness is bigger you will not feel that the ball fully makes contact with the blade on bouncing :that means that the glue layer is too thick and the sound will be different than usual. Then you have to peel off and re-glue. If you change the rubbers it is also better to peel off , or to preserve them with glue on them if you want to re-use .If you want to have rubbers just prepared for final assembly you can prepare up to the last layer to be applied, protect them with protection foils(on both sides ) and assembly by just adding one thin layer on rubber on blade in the sport hall.
8Q: How much quantity on one layer and how do I know is enough, too much or not enough?
A: Quantity is around 1 ml for one layer . It is enough to cover all surface uniformly white being not in excess . If it too much you can take with the sponge what is in excess and distribute on the other rubber or blade.If it is less when is drying you will see and can add a small quantity.
9Q : How do I peel off rubbers from blade?
A: Always start peeling off rubbers from the handle end in diagonal up to the top. Do it gently in order not to damage the fibers of the blade and to preserve the adhesive layers. After you peeled off you can use the existing adhesive layer (which is perfectly dried-so it’s quality is the best ) as a support for just one more layer of adhesive to set rubbers on another blade,etc.Also clean the blade with your hand from remaining glue until you feel it smooth and delicate.Sometimes there are remaining films on blade contour and is better to clean with a special piece of felt .
10Q : How do I clean the rubbers from glue to preserve them better?
A: IF you want to peel off the glue (if surface is damaged on margins or just simply want to peel off ), if the thickness of glue is enough you just peel the glue off in seconds :for not damaging the rubber the best way is to start from the bottom end( the handle end ) by rubbing slowly with you finger until you can pull in the direction of the handle by slow movements the dried glue until completely removed from rubber.The adherence of glue on rubber is designed to be easily removed from rubbers without damaging the sponge .If the thickness is not enough you can add one or more layers and then you easily can peel off the glue from rubbers.
11Q: How do I protect the blade?
A: Usually blades are lacquered from factory if not a special lacquer must be used at least to seal the handle. In one year the weight of blade can increase with 5 grams or more,gravity center will move and the blade will have more control,less speed, more weight which will change your strokes .
12Q: How do I repair the blade?
A: If part of the blade is damaged use a mixture of very fine wood dust (small part) with wood glue (glue, EVA) to make a paste with which you fill the holes, let dry and than polish with sandpaper or felt
13Q: How do I protect the rubbers?
A: You better preserve rubbers ready to be used (with the glue on them if is not damaged from peeling off or new glued after peeling off) by putting rubbers, after cleaning with REvolution No.3 cleaner and dried ,between two protection foils and so on (one more rubber , another protection foil ) .
14Q: How do I use roller for pressing correctly the rubbers on blade?
A: First ,after positioned the bottom of rubber near the handle , by sustaining with the fingers the rest of rubber we use the roller to press upward firmly with big pressure but slowly, taking care that rubbers enter into contact with the blade only in this sense(not missing any surface). Than make the same movement from left side to right side and from right to left side. Keep the roller in your hand letting 3 cm free of one bottom and press firmly the rubber on the contour of the blade.
15Q: How do I cut the rubbers?
A: Use a cutter or right scissors:bigger arms , small cutting edges in order to cut exactly on the contour of the blade . When cutting, do not push the scissors into the rubber, since the rubber might detach from the blade. It is recommended to gently use the scissors to cut slowly on small portions of the rubbers constantly.
16Q: How do I use the press and why?
A: We use the press to obtain a more compact and uniform layer of adhesive : by putting 2 layers on blade and 2 -4 layers on rubber and than pressing them it is easier to obtain a better compatibility and a better uniformity of the final glue dried layer . It is known that any surface (even glass or others ) is not perfectly smooth and continuously and by pressing them we can obtain better uniformity and better adherence . Most important is that elastic glue layer makes a perfect interface, with a determinant role in the performance of your racket ,between rubbers and blade . Perfect elasticity , uniformity and adherence of the gluing film makes from Revolution No. 3 the active third part of your racket.
17Q: What is the recommended weight of the racket?
A: For mostly of the rackets (offensive ) the recommended weight is 175-190 grams.For defenders 145 grams to 175 grams . Usually Chinese players have heavier rackets :180 grams to 210 grams .
18Q: How do I choose my blade and rubbers?
A: Usually,depending on each style you have to combine even hard blades with softer rubbers or softer blades with harder rubbers. Anyhow rubbers are different hardness for forehand being harder than for backhand .I recommend 2.0 mm thickness (or 1.9 ) for backhand (even for forehand sometimes ) and for amateurs or beginners rubbers of 1.5 mm and 1.8 mm thickness .I also recommend the set up : blade All + ,Of-, Of ( stiff or vibration blade ) with better control and bigger dwell time (if possible linear response ) with hard rubbers combined with Revolution No. 3 . On forehand Chinese prefer hard Chinese rubbers , with linear response for better control on shorts and bigger power on rallies . Take care that they are physically trained to use these kind of rubbers ;for new practitioners can cause serious injuries to the shoulder .
19Q: How do I get more speed, spin and control?
A: By choosing the right setup :blade , rubbers and correct numbers of adhesive layers on rubber and sponge . Under certain limits (up to a thickness of 0.1 mm for the glue ) you can obtain bigger speed ,spin and control if the glue layer is thicker . If the glue is well dried the elasticity and the sound of the racket are exactly what everybody wants.
20Q: How do I clean sponges glued with other glues?
A: There are may glues on the market or too adherent or too soft and difficult to be peeled off. However if one add 1-2 layers of Revolution No. 3 on old glues (on sponge and on blade-if necessary) and let completely dried , the new glue is making a compact film with the old one and if it is the right thickness (if not just add more glue) can be peeled off without any problem .
21Q: What if I transport at -20 Degrees Celsius?
A: Revolution No.3 is resisting to 2 freeze -thaw cycles at -20 degrees Celsius.
22Q: Rubbers are not perfectly sticked to blade, especially on contour. Why?
A: First of all if the blades are lacquered use some sand paper (180 or 240 granulation ) for obtaining a better adherence without damaging the blade . Avoid gluing in sport hall where is always moisture or if you are sweat : a water based ,non adhesive film could be formed on blade or rubbers ,especially on edges . When you glue the rubbers do not tension them ,like this will not shrink and is also according to ITTF rules. When you cut rubbers I suggest to use our scissors but anyhow whatever you use do not push when you cut because of course you will destry the adhesive bond. Use roller to press well the rubbers on blade and I always suggest our press for best results (performance of the racket ) Let adhesive to dry perfectly before you glue and as final layer thinner layers will give stronger adherence . To repair : just gently take off rubbers,do not peel off adhesive ,apply a thin layer on rubber ,a thin layer on sanded blade ,let dry perfectly ( 30-60 min ) stick rubbers on blade with no stretch but pressing with a roller ,keep it in the press and will be fine.